It was the most astonishing party you have ever seen. There was dancing and gaiety and whirling skirts. There was whispering in corners, and smudged lipstick and high-pitched giggles. There was wine and song. But there were no women. Everyone of the 40 or so people gathered at Joey’s place in Woodstock, Cape Town, was a man — or at any rate, a male. This was a party given by Cape Town’s famous “moffies.” The moffies are people who were born as males, but would like to be female.